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Embroidery |
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The art of
embroidery is largely based upon the indigenous Kangra and Chamba schools
of paintings. The stitches are so closeby, spaced that no gaps are
visible. The word 'Rumal' may conjure up visions of a handkerchief to the
layman but to the Chamba people, it is a form of adornment. Men drape
these colourful embroidered rumals over their shoul- ders and the women
use them as flowing veils. A Chamba rumal is such priceless possession,
that a bride's trousseau would be incomplete without it. Today, Chamba
rumal are also used as wall-hangings. door and fire screens, cushion
covers while the designs have been adopted for table-cloth and
bed-spreads. |
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The embroidery of
the Pradesh can be divided under two major heads that rumal embroidery and
leather embroidery. The rumal literally means a handkerchief. It is not
used as a handkerchief in the western sense of the world. It is presented
during Chamba and Suni weddings and forms an important part of the bride's
trousseau. Generally square in shape, the rumal may also be rectangular,
ranging from 2 to 6 feet in length. It is also known as "Kashida". The
Chamba embroidery is same on both sides and the ground is usually cream or
white. The embroidery silks are in vivid and striking contrast and the
embroidery is done on plain fine cotton or silk fabrics. The whole work is
carried out in the running stitch, with no gaps stitches. The space is
adoritly filled in, so that the figures apear on both side of the rumal
and the effect is almost the same as in the ancient frescoes on the wall
of the princely palaces in Himachal Pradesh. It is almost as if the whole
of the picture has been transplanted from the wall to the cloth and the
resemblance between the rumal and frescoe becomes unmistakable. Suni
embroidery is only one side and chiefly comprises of geometrical patterns. |
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The art of leather
embroidery in Himachal Pradesh, probably originated with the peasant class
which has contributed the best specimens. It flourished under the
patronage of the princes, rulers and the courtiers. Like other applied
arts, embroidery reflects the cultural heritage of people. |
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